SPORTS: The Freedom of The Surf by Brad Weisman
Many of us never take the chance to take a wave, however there are 23 million people worldwide that will ride the waves this year. Every year 400,000 surf boards are sold worldwide and the industry is a 4 billion dollar industry. There are even people who take up surfing as a profession. Kelly Slater has a significant history in the sport and back in 2009 made 3 million dollars as a pro. He along with many other professional surfers have experienced waves that seem like they last a lifetime. However, with that said few people live in places where they ride a wave.
It is not just about blonde hair…being a dude……having that cool California accent (however that stuff sure seems like it comes into play). It actually takes a sport and pushes a lifestyle that is full of free thinking and endless boundaries. We live in a world today that places boundaries on everything, but surfing eliminates all of that. In fact, you begin to open up your mind when you hit your first wave. You begin to embrace fear and not be scared when the ocean tackles you to the bottom. In fact, you never think or realize you are in the ocean where sharks lurk and other sea creatures that could be of danger. For the moment you hit a wave you just live and ride it until it ends. Perhaps that is how life goes when things are good…..just ride it until it ends. Who knows?
The folks at the beach at 5:30am in the surfing community come from all walks of life…..doctors, students, attorneys, sales dudes, bums, Brad Weisman, and really anyone who wants to walk on water. Everyone talks to everyone as long as you are in a wetsuit and in the water. Most friendly place on earth……even Mr. Rogers (if he was in a wetsuit) would be welcomed.
It is the only sport I have ever done that delivers a powerful emotion to the soul that is very positive. You feel good even on your worst day and wetsuits are rad. I love that I can be in water that is freezing and it doesn’t bother me. Perhaps it is that my body is numb and I am on the verge of hypothermia….kidding.
In the end surfing has some parallels to what we all witness in life. There are the highs and lows of life and tides that reside in the ocean. There is always someone better than you and few of us can become Laird Hamilton. Most of all, there is a
freedom in life we can all grab and feel just like the never ending distance of the ocean waters. I really dig the waters and the freedom I share with others